Day8, August 31, 2012 22 miles in the wind and rain! Total mileage: 193 miles

However, it has not rained everyday and here are a few pictures from sunnier times when the internet was acting up.  Along the way we would often meet up with others from the tour.  John and Maggie are from England and are seasoned tourers (which is not the same as a tourist).

 This section of Holland is known for its herring and paling-which we call eel.  Paul found a little fish market selling smoked eel.  He purchased this fellow and shared it with everyone at our table.  They were all glad that I declined since it meant more for them!

 It isn't just about fish and bakeries.  We ducked into a local pub when the skies opened up.  Always a fun way to wait out a shower.

 Now it's today (August 31).  Not only was it raining this morning, there were very strong winds and it was very chilly.  Paul and I were very happy that we had brought wool socks and our long johns....and it is still August!  This group rides no matter what and out we went.

 We all went to the Henri Willig Cheese Farm.  We learned how they make their cheese and had some samples.  Quite tasty.  Then we were off into the wind and the rain.

 Our original intention was to pedal out to Marken Island.  We were traveling on a dike which was fine as long as we were heading southeast.  Unfortunately that wasn't very often.  As we continued, the wind was so strong that we decided to move inland because we felt that pedaling over the causeway would be order dangerous.  It continued to rain and be windy, but we were dry and warm in our rain gear.

 At last we found coffee and an awning.  We were all set for our morning break and the baked goods were sweet!

 The rain lessened but you can tell by this tree that the wind continued with a vengeance.  Those homes on the other side of the Noord Holland canal are all houseboats.  It is a very different lifestyle.  There was even a "road" sign in the canal indicating how far to Amsterdam by canal.

We made it back to the boat in Amsterdam.  The skies had cleared and we had time, so we decided to take a canal boat ride around the city.  We hopped on the #48 bus and went back to Central Station to take the canal boat ride.  This view of seven arched bridges over the canal was very impressive.  It was interesting to see some of the sights from water and learn the history of many of the building.  A wet start but a dry end to the day.

Day 7, August 30,2012 Enkhuizen to Volendam 34 miles for a total of 171 miles. 
THE WIND, THE WATER and SOME SILLINESS
We started the day overlooking IJsselmeer.  Shortly after we left the boat, we were pedaling atop the dike overlooking Markermeer.  A force 4 wind was blowing in our faces and this warning greeted us as we pedaled along.

 All morning and part of the afternoon we traveled on this dike.  It was newly paved and a dream to pedal on except for the headwind.  The wind, of course, did not seem to bother the sheep.  Also, it was rather disconcerting when a car came along.  There is just enough room for a car and a bike, but there were a couple of cars that took their lane a little too right.

 This windmill was just too perfect not to share.

 This is the main street of Hoorn, a former center of shipping (as in the 1500 and 1600s).  Most of these houses have step gables and the very last one has a bell gable.  What you can't see in this picture is how the houses have settled over the centuries and they all list one way or another.  Apparently they have all been stabilized, but they can not be made straight.

This is the cheese market in Hoorn.  A horse drawn wagon came to the market and all these men in traditional garb began off loading the wheels of cheese.  They were oversee by others dressed as merchants and buyers.  It was like watching a fire brigade.  However, the music being played while the cheese was being passed was the theme song to Rawhide!!!!!!!

Now notice the ropes hanging from the men's waists........

 The ropes were attached to the notched ends of sleds that carried wheels of cheese.  A pair of men carrying the sled trotted around the market.  There were about six pairs of men trotting around the amrket carrying cheese to Walk Like an Egyptian. Traditional got lost somewhere and it was the silliness.

 Today was one beautiful view after another.  This was our lunch scenery.  If it weren't for the wind, it would have been beyond perfect.

We moved inland to escape the headwind on the dike.  While there was still a stiff breeze, we were rewarded with views like this.  All in all a wonderful day on the dikes, roads and bicycle path.  And adding to our great day, the rain arrived after we were back on the Angela Esmee.

 Day 6, August 29, 2012 31.5 miles biking from Medemblik to Enkhuizen

This is the promised picture from yesterday.  We pedaled our way down this paved expanse that helps protect the dike from the Noordzee.
This morning at 6:30 Am the boat left Oudeschild and sailed for Medemblik on the shores of the IJsselmeer.  The trip involved passing through a lock which prevents the salt water from mixing with the sweet water (we call it freshwater). So we crossed the Barrier Dike and by 9:15 we were docked and ready to roll.

 At last the language barrier caught up with us and proved the saying that appearances can be deceiving.  We went to a bakery for a goodie.  Paul picked out two yummy looking goodies.  Alas, they were savory instead of sweet.  The goodies were quite delicious but not what we expected!

The air was heady with two predominant scents during the early part of our ride.  There was "dairy air" of both sheep and cows and then there was the cabbage.  It's harvesting time for the cabbage and these two trucks held heads of cabbage the size of basketballs!

 When we reached the village of Twisk, we saw the old train station.  Paul headed over to take some pictures and see what they had.  The stationmaster lives there and of course a conversation ensued.  The kind gentleman opened the station and showed Paul all their artifacts from a railroad that was completed in 1895.  He would have blown the whistle (that white pole in the foreground) but everyone would think that the train was coming.

 This is just a picture to let you know how delightful the scenery is on this trip.  The canal is beside the bike trail and there is greenness everywhere.

 We went off "trail"  and went to Pronkjewal Theetuin-a tea garden-outside of Oostwoud.  We had a lovely cup of tea and some appeltaart.  This was the best tart yet.  It was a sweet stop on a fun ride.

 Finally it was time to stop for a late lunch and at last we found the dike along the IJsselmeer.  We stopped at a beach and Paul wandered in.  The water was not very deep and there were kids playing out 200 yards on water up to their waists!

The top of the dike along the IJsselmeer was our road for the last ten miles of our ride.  Unfortunately the wind was in our face,but we still enjoyed the day.  Tonight a walking tour of Enkhuizen will end our day.

 Day 5, Tuesday, August 25, 2012
31 miles all over Texel Island.  After everyone arrived back at the Angela Esmee, the boat departed for Texel Island.  The trip started by going through a lock.  Although we have seen many locks, we have never been through one.  Dinner was at sea and quite delightful.  After arriving, we wandered around Oudeschild and saw the dike which runs the entire eastern side of the island.

 Today was YOYO-you're on your own.  We decided to head to Den Burg for some coffee and a goodie.  However it wasn't very far away and we weren't ready for our morning break.  We walked around this very old village and did some window shopping.  Unfortunately the shop selling yarn made from local sheep was closed on Tuesday.  Having my fill of shops, we headed off.  We spied this door within a door on our way out of town.

 As we headed down the road towards deWaal, we noticed a fietspad-bike path-that was headed in our direction so we left the road.  It ran along a field of sheep and a wooded hedgerow.  The odd thing about the sheep raised here, in general the Dutch do not like lamb and it is almost all exported.

 We reached de Waal in no time.  This very old  and tiny village had a restaurant, but no morning coffee.  This tidy property with art work and garden is typical of the homes on the island.  We left deWaal and turned to the east.  We were certain that there would be many options in de Koog which is a resort town.  We were not disappointed and found a seat under an awning to enjoy our break while there was a shower.

It was too overcast and cool for Paul to jump in the North Sea. (He did go swimming yesterday, but there wasn't a picture worth publishing.) Since it was only 11:30, we decided to pedal up to de Cocksdorp.  Suddenly the bike path was in a very wooded area with small hills and many other riders.  We even saw some other tandems.

 While on our way to de Cocksdorp, we passed many sights.  This wooden windmill objet d'art was the most interesting.  We also passed the the island's airport which was a grass strip.  We continued on the well marked and numbered bike paths.  Most of the day we were not on any roads, just dedicated bike paths that often paralleled the road.

 We found a lovely bench in the shade.  It was a perfect spot for lunch and the small supermarket across the street offered free WiFi.  It is my observation that in Holland it is easier to find free WiFi than a public toilet.  It is still a beautiful place to visit.  The wind had been behinds most of the morning so we knew that the trip back to the boat would be a headwind.  We pedaled toward the ocean and the Lancasterdijk.

 When we reached the Lancasterdijk we were on a road that was between the ocean and the dike.  THe tide was out and clamming appeared to be the activity of the day.  Since the wind was from the southwest the dike offered us some protection.  We zipped down the dike road going 15/16 mph.  A few miles south, we had to cross over the dike to the road that was located on the land side of the dike.  Needless to say, our mph dropped. Tomorrow I will include the picture that was supposed be next.  I is an awesome view of our ride along the paved Lancasterdijk and the ocean.

 When we returned to Oudeschild, we went to the De Oude Vismarkt.  Paul treated himself to some local herring.  I offered to take the picture but decline to partake!  It was lucky that he did not decide to have the smoked eel.........I am not sure that I could have taken that picture!

 Then we went on the last adventure before boarding the boat.  About 20 peole from the tour went to the Trexel Brewery for a tour.  They make a traditional beer (not lager).  Our guide spoke to us in 3 different languages.  It took some time, but everyone got the story.  It was interesting and then we sample the goods.  THe flight of beer offered was varied and if I lived here, I would have 3 of the 4 again.

Paul also enjoyed a glass of their prize winning dark beer.  He enjoyed it and then we headed the mile back to the boat.  As soon as the bikes were all loaded on the the boat, we set sail for Den Oever where will spend the night.  This harbor overlooks a long dike that was built in 1932 and created land and a fresh water lake.  Early tomorrow morning we will pass through a lock into the lake and head south where we will begin our ride.  We are having quite a time

 Day 4: August 27,2012 DUINES and DIJKS 
Alkmaar to Den Helder  37.3 miles   
This picture is of a canal in Alkmaar.  Paul took an evening tour with a group from the boat.  It was a perfect end to our third day of the tour.

 However, today was superb.  It was easily a top ten type of day.  The temperature was comfortably cool and the skies were blue.  There was so much variety in the scenery that it was like being in many different places.  On the other side of this flock of sheep is a small canal.  This is one of the well marked and paved bike trails.  As we started out, we passed many people on their way to work.

 Then suddenly we entered a wooded area and started uphill!  At one point we reached an elevation of 133ft!  There was even a snow tube hill in the middle of this area.  Heather grew everywhere in these woods.

 And then we were in the dunes.  We couldn't believe that a mere hour ago we were pedaling past canals and now there were hills and no water to be seen.  The trail meandered trhough the dunes bringing us closer to the sea.

 As we approached the sea, there was access to the ocean which included parking for bicycles.  We took advantage of the opportunity to see the North Sea up close.  Near this "parking" area, we had our morning coffee and cake.  The apple cake is delicious.

 Fortified by the goodies, we walked down to the water and put our feet in.  We expected the water to feel like Cape Cod at its coldest, but it was Jersey shore in July.  Not bad at all.

 Eventually, we left the ocean and were back  on a paved path.  The wind had changed during the night an it was at our back.  We just sailed along enjoying the ride.

 Then we had the opportunity to return to the dunes and we took it.  These dunes were sandier and there were fewer trees.  The wind remained at our back and the pedaling was sweet.

 This sand trap is for all of our golfing friends and relatives.  We did pass one golf course this morning, but we didn't have our clubs!

This was one of the coolest-top ten-things we did today.  There is a paved bike path right along the ocean.  There is a dike to the land side of this path.  Between the the tail wind and the pavement, it was a ride to remember.

Day 3, August 26, 2012 Zaandam to Alkmaar: 29.4 miles
LOW AND RAINY
This is our cabin.  Good thing that Paul and I like each other or this space would be way too small. Since we packed light for this trip, we have made everything, including ourselves, fit nicely

 This tour has csme routine to it.  All of us have been assigned to a table with fellow cyclists.  We eat our meals with Jan and Anne Marie from Sweden and Mieke from Holland.  They all speak English so we have had some lively conversations. Each evening the coordinator, Wilhemena describes the route first in German, then Dutch and finally in English.  We are quite impressed.  And Paul is happy because she advises where all the coffee and goodies can be found

 The weather forecast for today was 90% chance of rain.  Well 90% of the day was dry, but when it rained, it poured including the start of today's ride.  Paul and I figured that since we were here and we had the equipment for rainy days, we were riding.  We started out wet which meant it could only get better and it did.  The nice thing about a Sunday ride is that there is no business traffic.  That was a good thing since we rode the first three miles past an industrial area which processed cocoa.  What a divine scent in the air.

 Our trip sheet included a map of the area and a numbered guide.  Along the route were these signs telling us which way to turn.  Sometime we were on dedicated bike paths, sometimes on the shared road, frequently a top a dike.  Today was not a ride for anyone with the need for speed.  Many of the roads were brick, a few were cobblestone and most were roads from other centuries when the buildings were very close to each other.  Respect of other travelers ruled the day and all went well.

 This was one of many windmills we passed.  Although many still turn, the canals are kept at the proper depth through a computer program and an electric pumping station.  Still the canals around the fields full of cows and/or sheep evoked a sense of another time in history.  We also learned that windmills were arranged in succession because they each pumped water from one canal to another and then another until the reclaimed land was dry.  Frequently a windmill would be dismantled and moved to another location when its job was completed. 

 All of this was learned at a museum along the route. We climbed up the long narrow ladders to the top of this windmill to see its inner workings.  All those wooden cogs and the long pole were quite impressive.  And as you can see the skies were quite cloudy.  It rained while we were inside so that was one less shower to ride through in the countryside.

This local "artifact" made the perfect shelter from a particularly bad downpour.  We escaped the deluge after riding through some very wind driven rain.

Most of the day was spent pedaling through very old villages and many of them were located below sea-level.  In fact, at one point we were 20 feet below sea level according to the GPS.  Also, Holland may be flat but there is ALWAYS a wind and it is always in your face!