Day 29, September 21

Day 29, September 21, 2012, Hedel to Utrecht, 41 miles, total mileage 911.7

Happy Autumn.  Another cool enough to need our gloves kind of day.  Once again we opted for the Fietsroutenetwerk.  Cycling from one knooppunt to another meant a scenic, meandering ride.

 Today turned out to be one for the domestic and wildlife.  Or course we saw the sheep, various breeds of cattle both dairy and dinner, goats, chickens and a few pigs.  This pair of black swans were quite unexpected.  While we were looking at them, they were inspecting us!

While traveling from one knooppunt to another, there are signs on the side of the path.  Unfortunately, by the end of the summer, many of the lower signs are covered by foliage.  It just adds to the adventure!

 These tree lined lanes never cease to bring us joy.  It is such a pleasure to ride down them.  Even when the air was full of the scent (odor) of commercially grown mushrooms, it was still a delight to be there.

On our ride we passed the Fort bij de Nieuw Steeg.  This school group left the fort shortly after we did.  There were teachers in the front and back of the group.  Everyone just pedaled back to school.  Can't imagine this happening at home.

 Yesterday we saw a stork's nest.  Today we got to see some white storks.  This field full of livestock was also full of birds.  Seeing the storks was very unexpected.

As Paul stepped back to take a picture of the storks, he looked down.  Good thing because this fellow was in the grass at his feet.

 Just can't get enough of these traffic-free lanes.  There were small canals of water on each side of the lane.  Then the fields seem to go on forever.  It is great riding.

Along the side of one of the canals, we spied this huge rabbit.  At first we thought it was an abandoned stuffed animal and then its nose moved.  Surprise!

Once again we had to take the ferry across the Lek River.  A quick ride and we were on the last leg of our day's ride.  We traveled along various canals-the kinds big enough to hold cargo barges-until we arrived in outskirts of Utrecht.  We are settled into our hotel and tomorrow we will visit the city.

Day 28 September 20

 Day 28, September 20, 2012, Nijmegen to Hedel, 42 miles, total mileage: 870.7

What a great day of pedaling.  This fountain was in the center of one of the round abouts in Nijmegen.  Another great sight.  Our original plan was to go to 'S-Hertogenbosch and use the bike bike route on the GPS.  However, we decided to go to Hedel, just north of Gen Bosch and use the Knooppunts-bicycle route intersection points in the Netherlands.  It was a perfect idea.

The GPS bike route keeps you off of interstate, highway type roads.  But the Knooppunt routes take you through scenic, country, back road,barely car traveled paths.  This fellow was part of the scenery.  Although we have seen road signs warning of deer, the only deer that we have seen have been behind fences.

Even along the Maas River, people plant their campers where ever there is space. Today was quite cold this morning, about 40 degrees F.  The gloves and all of our layers came out.

 In Ravenstein we stopped for our morning break.  This small village was part of the fortifications along the Maas River.  And of course the cobblestone street made entering town an adventure.

When we were traveling through the far west of the USA, we would see the water tower or grain elevator of the next town far in the distance.  As we pedal through the countryside here in the Netherlands, it is a church steeple that tells us where the next village will be located.

 Each of the cities along this section of the Maas River have a new piece of sculpture.  A few years ago when the dikes were raised, each town commissioned a piece of art to commemorate the occasion. After all,  the dikes are now between 8 and 12 feet above sea level and most of the towns along this stretch of the river are at or below sea level.  Also, many places we have seen trees, poles, and sculptures wrapped in knitted scarves.

 As we entered the village of Megen, there was a stork nest atop this tower.  It was the first one we had seen.  Alas, no storks.

 This is the Kasteel Oijen.  Its original foot print dates back to the 14th century.  We ate lunch across the moat from this castle.  Quite a view.

This sculpture was along the dike as we were riding.  We met a man who told us that the seas was Holland's enemy and water was everywhere.  This piece of art certainly says the very same thing.

 As we passed through Lith, we were admiring this garden.  The owner came out and we complimented him. We had a lively conversation (that is how we learned about the commissioned art), then headed on our way.

 This ferry took us across the Maas River. It was a quick trip.  The ferry route was on part of the Knooppunt routes, #98 to be exact.  During our ride today, we passed 25 different intersections of this marvelous, country wide bicycle route system.

We have seen this evergreen type tree numerous times while cycling through Holland.  It is called apenboom.  It is very unusual and gets quite large.  After a great day of cycling, we made it to Hedel.  It is a small town rather than a large city.  I must say that we have gotten much better at our commuter/city lights starts and stops.  However, those quick 90 degree turns remain difficult.  That is when the tandem becomes a behemoth and we must get off and walk.  Some days, small is better.

Day 27, September 19

 Day 27, September 19, 2012, Venlo to Nijmegen, 46.5 miles, total mileage: 828.7

We were so lucky that Wendy was able to lead us out of town and send  us on our through some beautiful country.

We traveled along the Maas River.  Like all the rivers in the Netherlands, it is necessary to continue keeping them ship worthy.  That hill in the background is a dike of dirt taken from the river.

So here's one of Paul's goofy pictures of what is happening behind him.  Wendy and I are pedaling along and as the scenery and sunshine abounds.

At last we reached our left off the main road.  The bike and passenger only ferry does not even show on the GPS.  It was down a country/dirt lane.

 This little ferry crosses back and forth across the Maas River.  It only carries bikes and walkers.  For 1 euro, it certainly beat swimming!

 Once we crossed the river, tante Jet's was right there.  We went in for some warmth. coffee and vlaai which is a tart served in Limborg region of the Netherlands.  It was outstanding.

 We continue to be surprised and fascinated by all the things we see. This is a machine design specifically to harvest potatoes.  One man drove and the man watched the potatoes come into the back.  Occassionly he would throw out a stone.  Not something we see everyday.

The day did not remain sunny. There was a 20% chance of rain and it caught up with us twice during the day.  Each time we were able to wait out the worst of the downpour.  The first time was under the canopy provided for drivers to pump their gas.  The second time was under a bridge.
After the rain, the temperature dropped dramatically.  11 celcius is only about 52 farenheit.  Chillier temperatures than we have experiences.   

This sky is the storm that was behind us.  You can only imagine how hard it rained and it certainly explains the temperature drop.

 And again we crossed the Maas River.  This ferry in Licten Doven also carries cars.  We do not cross the river again and do not see a river again until we reach Nijmegen and see the Waal River.

We took a break to remove some of our rain gear since the sun was shining again.  Paul spied this steam engine in DeHeij.

 This brick windmill was a beautiful example and it has been a long time since we have seen one.  Enjoy.....we did!  So after our various rain delays and crossing the first hills (small mountains? - which arrived in the second ice age) we made it to Nijmegen. It is a university town with some history.  We did not see much but we enjoyed dinner overlooking the Waal River.

Day 26, September 18

Day 26, September 18, 2012 A Great Day in Venlo, 16 miles, total mileage:  782.2

Our Warmshowers hosts invited us to spend another night in Venlo and we accepted. After visiting and touring so much antiquity, we decided to stay current.  We had the Limborg tradition of coffee and a special pie with Yvonne and Paul Fransen.

 Another Paul and Paul picture.  The "other" Paul may look like an adult to you, but in reality, he is Paul's younger brother Thomas's high school friend.  Just because he has a family and business, he doesn't get to age!

 Every ten years, the Netherlands hold a huge horticultural exposition call Floriade.  This time it was held in Venlo and Paul and I decided to go.  So we hoped on the tandem and followed the knooppunts to the exposition.  Here is the parking area for bikes.  Even ours fit.

 These were some really BIG boots on the path into Floriade.

 At last, a kid proof couch.  This was part of a bringing the outside inside area.  The space had an entire house floorplan done in plants and such.

These hydroponic lettuce were the best looking lettuce I have every seen.  It was part of growing in and for the future.

This wall of plants was incredible.  It is only about 6-8 inches deep.  Everything is grown in small containers and there is a built in watering system.  We were both fascinated by it.

 Even in Holland, nothing runs like a Deere!

On our way back to town, we passed this massive pile of sugar beets.  At first we though it was a pile of rocks, but upon inspection, we were quite surprised.

Paul is riding this Holland style touring bike so quickly, I can't catch him in focus.  This type of bike is everywhere and people of all ages ride them.  A fun day in the present.

Day 25 September 17

 Day 25, September 17, 2012, Neuss, Germany to Venlo, Netherlands, 35 miles, total mileage: 766.2

As we left Neuss, that Siren the bakery called to Paul.  Decision, decision.  He decided on an apricot tart and the raisin bun goodie.  He shared the apricot number but the raisin bun was his.

 You may be thinking that this is just a shot of a long straight bike path that runs along the road and you would be right.  However, that fellow dressed in yellow with the yellow container on the front of his bike is the postman.  It is not unusual to see the postman pedaling along the road.

 We have left the industrialized Rhine River and are now heading west.  The landscape has returned to flatness and farming.

 Once again we stayed off of the road on the bike path.  We have no idea what this striped posts were.  The corn field to the left was one of many crops we saw in the fields.  We also saw turnips, cabbage, kale, rutabagas, carrots, and lettuce.

When Paul had "Together Forever" inscribed on the inside of my wedding band, I had no idea that part of forever would be this many miles on the tandem!

 This was a lot more than a gaggle of geese, in fact this was a goose farm.  The crows and the gulls also seemed to be enjoying whatever was being served.

 By the time we reached this sign on the front of the factory, we already knew they were making  sauerkraut.  The aroma filled the air.

 These acres of red cabbage were right down the road from the sauerkraut factory.  Perhaps they also processed the rote kraut.

 At last we crossed the border into the Netherlands and instantly there was a fish store selling herring and other delectables.  Paul opted for smoked mackerels.  I declined.

Tonight we are staying with Wendy and Tim, Warmshowers hosts.  They are transplants from the Pacific Northwest and have opened their home to us and shared their knowledge of the area.  We are very lucky.